화학공학소재연구정보센터
Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, Vol.189, No.2, 288-293, 1997
Successful Incorporation of Pseudo-Ceramides into Emulsions at Effective Concentrations
The incorporation of pseudo-ceramide (SLE), analogous in structure to natural occurring ceramide Type II, into an emulsion for skincare treatment was investigated. As SLE is water insoluble and not sufficiently oil soluble, resulting concentrations in emulsions were only 1.25%-too low for skin treatment. Stable lamellar structures formed with stearic acid did not have sufficient affinity for water to allow emulsification. The water binding capacity was increased by modifying stearic acid with polyoxyethylene (C18EOn). When using stearic acid with 5 to 25 POE units, excess water would initiate emulsification (liquid crystalline emulsification). The interaction between the polar groups of C18EOn and SLE prevents SLE from crystallizing out. Replacing stearic acid with cholesterol resulted in a much smaller droplet size due to a change in fluidity in the hydrophobic portion of the lamellar structure, thus further increasing the stability. Employing C18EOn or POE-modified cholesterol, it was possible to incorporate up to 18.1% of SLE into an emulsion.